Elephants at Kodanad
Discovering the Kodanad Elephant Sanctuary: A Haven for Gentle Giants in Kerala
by Cibi Chakravarthi
Nestled along the serene banks of the Periyar River in Kerala's Ernakulam district, the Kodanad Elephant Sanctuary, also known as Abhayaranyam, is a must-visit destination for wildlife enthusiasts and families alike. Located approximately 42 kilometers east of Kochi and 18 kilometers from Cochin International Airport, this sanctuary offers a unique opportunity to witness the grace and majesty of Indian elephants (Elephas maximus indicus) in a lush, eco-friendly setting. As one of Kerala's premier elephant rescue and rehabilitation centers, Kodanad blends conservation, education, and eco-tourism, making it a perfect stop for those exploring the natural and cultural wonders of "God’s Own Country."
A Legacy of Care and Conservation
Established in the 1950s, Kodanad was once one of the largest elephant training centers in Kerala, where elephants from the nearby Malayattoor forests were tamed for work in the timber industry and temple festivals. Following the 1977 ban on elephant capturing by the Government of India, the center shifted its focus to rescuing and rehabilitating stranded or orphaned elephants. In 2011, the facility expanded to the nearby Abhayaranyam eco-tourism project at Kaprikkad, a 200-acre natural forest site designed to provide a more spacious and environmentally friendly habitat for the elephants and other wildlife.
Today, Kodanad (now primarily referred to as Abhayaranyam) is home to approximately 9–10 elephants, including adults and juveniles, cared for by skilled mahouts (locally called paappaan). The sanctuary also houses a mini-zoo with species like spotted deer and sambar, enhancing its appeal as a biodiversity hotspot. The Kerala Forest Department oversees the facility, ensuring the elephants receive proper care, veterinary attention, and a safe environment.
Activities and Experiences
Visiting Kodanad offers a rare chance to observe the daily lives of these gentle giants. The sanctuary opens from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM (closed on Mondays), with entry fees of ₹20 for Indian adults, ₹10 for children, and ₹100 for foreign visitors. The best time to visit is early morning, particularly between 8:00 AM and 11:30 AM, when elephants are bathed in the Periyar River or hosed down by their mahouts. While visitors cannot directly feed the elephants due to safety and welfare guidelines, watching them feed on bundles of grass and leaves is a fascinating experience.
Key activities include:
Elephant Bathing: Observe mahouts bathing elephants using coconut husks and small rocks, a traditional practice that keeps the animals clean and healthy.
Photography: The scenic backdrop of the Periyar River and surrounding forests provides stunning opportunities for wildlife photography. Video shooting may incur additional charges.
Nature Walks: Explore walkways along the river and through the forest, offering a peaceful retreat and chances to spot deer, birds, and other wildlife in the mini-zoo.
Eco-Tourism: The Abhayaranyam project emphasizes sustainable tourism, with nature trails and educational programs about elephant conservation and Kerala's biodiversity.
Elephant rides were once offered but have been phased out in favor of ethical practices, reflecting the sanctuary’s commitment to animal welfare. However, some visitors have expressed concerns about the use of chains to restrain elephants, a practice justified by the sanctuary for safety but criticized by animal welfare advocates.
Cultural and Ecological Significance
In Kerala, elephants are revered as symbols of strength, wisdom, and divinity, often associated with Lord Ganesha. They play a central role in temple festivals, adorned with ornate caparisons and paraded in grand processions. Kodanad’s elephants, once trained for such cultural roles, are now primarily cared for as part of conservation efforts. The sanctuary also serves as a rescue center for orphaned calves and injured elephants, providing them with a safe haven.
The surrounding landscape, with the Periyar River and the Western Ghats’ towering ranges, adds to the sanctuary’s allure. Nearby attractions include the Malayattoor Church (accessible by river boat), Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary, and Bhoothathankettu Dam, making Kodanad an ideal base for exploring Kerala’s natural and spiritual heritage.
Planning Your Visit
How to Reach: Kodanad is accessible by road from Kochi (45 km), with the nearest railway station at Aluva (25 km) and Cochin International Airport (18.7 km). Regular buses and taxis connect from Perumbavoor (11 km).
Best Time to Visit: November to February offers cool, pleasant weather, ideal for outdoor activities. Avoid visiting during the monsoon season (June–September) as river levels may disrupt bathing activities.
Tips: Arrive early to catch the bathing sessions, carry cash for entry fees, and avoid plastic bags (prohibited). Wear comfortable shoes for walking and bring a hat or umbrella for sun protection.
A Call for Ethical Tourism
While Kodanad offers a unique glimpse into elephant care, recent reviews highlight concerns about animal welfare, including the use of chains and limited space for the elephants. The sanctuary is working to improve conditions, but visitors are encouraged to support ethical tourism by respecting guidelines, avoiding disruptive behavior, and advocating for the animals’ well-being.
Kodanad Elephant Sanctuary is more than a tourist attraction—it’s a place to connect with nature, learn about conservation, and appreciate the cultural significance of elephants in Kerala. Whether you’re capturing the perfect photograph or simply soaking in the tranquil riverside ambiance, a visit to Kodanad promises memories that will last a lifetime.
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